배용준: 김치의 역사 /History of Korean's Kimchi

[기고] 한류 연예인을 김치 홍보대사로 / Hallyu Star Pomote Korean's Kimchi

얼마 전 일본 미야자키현 미야자키시에서 ‘한국의 맛, 김치’ 란 주제로 1시간여 김치 강연을 기획했다. 그리고 한·중·일 3국을 다니며 꾸준히 촬영해온 김치사진 30여점으로 전시회를 곁들이고 한국에서 비행기로 공수한 김치 조형물도 선보였다.

이날 강연에서 필자는 김치 역사를 소개하면서 김치의 국제식품 공인 소식을 알리고 싶었다. 한국의 김치축제를 영상으로 보여주고, 40여가지의 김치 종류를 소개했는데 참석자들은 김치가 국제적 인증을 거친 식품이며, 건강에 여러모로 유익하고 종류 또한 상상 외로 다양한 것에 대해 놀라는 탄성이 나왔고 필자는 그들의 진지한 관심을 이끌어내는 것이 크게 힘들지 않았던 것 같다.

일본의 지인들을 만나면서 전반적으로 한국문화와 음식에 대한 호감이 높아진 것을 피부로 느꼈다. 이참에 김치를 알리기 위한 첫걸음을 떼야겠다는 의욕만을 가지고 시작해 본 작업이라 홍보까지는 크게 신경을 쓰지 못한 점이 아쉽다.

하지만 6개월의 짧은 체류 기간이라도 일단 시작을 해 놓는 작업이 의미가 있으리라 판단한다. 그래도 60여명이나 예약을 통해 참석한 이날 강연은 한·일의 문화가 교류하고 정서가 소통된 시간이었다고 긍정의 답을 선택해도 될 것 같다.

많은 참석자들 중 일본의 배용준 팬들은 즐거운 방문객이 돼 주었다. 욘사마 여성팬클럽 회원들은 늦게까지 강연장에 머무르면서 필자가 손님과 얘기 나누는 것을 기다려 기념사진 촬영을 제의했다. 자신들이 생활하는 모습을 앨범에 넣어 욘사마에게 꼭 보내고 싶단다.

욘사마는 막연히 동경하는 연예인이 아니고 그들과 희로애락을 같이해 줄 동지로 생각하는 것 같았다. 실제로 그들의 이야기를 들어 보면 출연 작품 내용이나 연기, 광고작품 활동에 대한 욘사마의 철학을 논리적으로 해석하고 매우 이성적으로 그를 지지한다는 것을 알 수 있었다.

박종철 순천대 한약자원학과 교수

보도에 따르면 ‘욘사마’ 배용준이 김치 담그기에 푹 빠졌다고 한다. 일본에서 일명 ‘욘사마 김치’로 폭발적인 인기를 누리며 수십억원대 매출을 올리고 있다고 하는데 최근에는 직접 김장 김치를 담그는 모습으로 더욱 큰 이슈가 되고 있다.

욘사마 팬뿐아니라 김치 강연에 참석한 한류 열풍의 주인공들은 엔고를 기회 삼아 더 가고 싶고, 알고 싶을 뿐 아니라 이웃 나라의 김치, 음식, 한국 사람의 삶 전반에 목 말라하는 것 같았다. 이들과 소통하기 위해 새로운 문화 접근의 재료 확보와 통로 열기가 급선무다.

이렇게 준비된 분위기 속에서도 결정적인 카드를 준비하지 못하고 있는 우리 김치의 상황을 생각해 본다. 국내 김치산업 부흥이 한계가 있고 김치 수출도 중국산 김치와의 경쟁으로 매우 힘든 상황이다.


하지만 농림수산식품부에서 지난해 식품산업 발전 종합대책을 발표하면서 김치를 6대 수출 품목 중 하나로 선정해 집중 육성할 방침이라고 밝힌 것은 김치산업 발전을 위해 다행스러운 일이다.

이와 함께 일본에서 큰 영향력을 미치고 있는 한류의 리더들을 김치산업 육성을 위한 홍보에 적극적으로 참여시킨다면 김치 세계화와 우리 김치산업의 발전에 큰 기여가 될 것이다.

박종철 순천대 한약자원학과 교수
세계일보＆세계닷컴(www.segye.com), 저작자표시+비영리+변경금지
Source : http://news.empas.com/

กิมจิ (김치, 김치)

กิมจิ (김치, 김치) มีข้อสันนิษฐานกันว่าน่าจะเพี้ยนมาจากคำว่า "ชิมเช" ((침채, , ฮันจา: 沈菜, , MC: chimchae, , MR: ch'imch'ae ?) ที่แปลว่าผักดองเค็ม กิมจิเป็นอาหารเกาหลีประเภทผักดองที่อาศัยภูมิปัญญาก้นครัวของชาวเกาหลี ด้วยการหมักพริกสีแดงและผักต่างๆ โดยทั่วไปจะเป็นผักกาดขาว ชาวเกาหลีนิยมรับประทานกิมจิเกือบทุกมื้อ และยังนำไปปรุงเป็นส่วนประกอบอาหารอีกหลายอย่าง เช่น ข้าวต้ม ข้าวสวย ซุป ข้าวผัด สตู บะหมี่ จนถึงพิซซาและเบอร์เกอร์ ปัจจุบันกิมจิมีมากกว่า 187 ชนิด ซึ่งส่วนใหญ่แล้วจะมีรสเผ็ด เปรี้ยว และมีกลิ่นฉุน แม้ปัจจุบันมีบริษัทอาหารผลิตกิมจิสำเร็จรูปหรือแบบสดขายตามห้างสรรพสินค้าก็ตาม แต่ชาวเกาหลีก็ยังนิยมทำกิมจิกินเองที่บ้าน

จุดเริ่มต้นของกิมจิ

เป็นที่เชื่อกันว่าการทำกิมจิเป็นการดองผักที่ถือกำเนิดขึ้นในศตวรรษที่ 7 ในยุคนั้นช่วงฤดูหนาวในประเทศเกาหลี จะมีอากาศหนาวจัดไม่เหมาะกับการเพาะปลูก ชาวเกาหลีจึงคิดวิธีการถนอมอาหารขึ้น เพื่อมาทดแทนผักสดที่หาได้ยาก หนึ่งในนั้นคือการทำผักดองเค็มด้วยเกลือหมักในไหแล้วนำไปฝังดิน จึงเป็นจุดกำเนิดของกิมจิในยุคสมัยต่อมา

กิมจิในสมัยอาณาจักรโคเรียว

มีการค้นพบหลักฐานเกี่ยวกับกิมจิจากตำรายารักษาโรคทางภาคตะวันออกของประเทศที่เรียกว่า "ฮันยักกูกึบบัง" (Hanyakgugeupbang) ในตำรากล่าวถึงกิมจิอยู่ 2 ชนิด ชนิดแรกคือหัวผักกาดฝานเป็นแผ่นดองด้วยซอสถั่วเหลืองเรียกว่า "กิมจิ-จางอาจิ" (Kimchi-jangajji) ชนิดที่สองใช้หัวไชโป๊เรียกว่า "ซุมมู โซกึมชอลรี" (Summu Sogeumjeori) เป็นที่เชื่อกันว่าได้มีการปรับปรุงรสชาติของกิมจิให้จัดจ้านขึ้น อีกทั้งเริ่มได้รับความนิยมว่าเป็นอาหารแปรรูปจึงเริ่มมีการทำกิมจิตลอดทั้งปีโดยไม่กำจัดเฉพาะช่วงฤดูหนาวเหมือนก่อน ทั้งสองอย่างนี้เกิดขึ้นในสมัยอาณาจักรโคเรียวนี้

กิมจิในสมัยโชซอน

เล่ากันว่ากิมจิที่มีในสมัยโชซอน ชาวบ้านจะใช้ผักใบเขียวมาดองกับเกลือหรือเกลือกับเหล้าเท่านั้นซึ่งเรียกว่ารสดั้งเดิม ในเวลาต่อมาช่วงต้นศตวรรษที่ 17 (หลังจากที่ถูกญี่ปุ่นรุกรานในปี พ.ศ. 2135) จึงเริ่มมีการนำเข้าผักจากต่างประเทศ ส่วนพริกแดงจากญี่ปุ่นนำเข้ามาโดยพ่อค้าชาวโปรตุเกส พริกจึงถูกนำมาใช้เป็นส่วนผสมอย่างหนึ่งในกิมจิหลังจากผ่านไปแล้ว 200 ปี ดั้งนั้นราวปลายสมัยราชวงศ์โชซอนสีของกิมจิจึงกลายเป็นสีแดง

ภายในราชสำนักโชซอนมีการทำกิมจิเพื่อใช้ถวายต่อกษัตริย์ในราชวงศ์โชซอนมีอยู่ด้วยกันสามชนิดได้แก่ "ชอทกุกจิ" (Jeotgukji) เป็นกิมจิที่ทำจากกะหล่ำปลีผสมกับปลาหมัก (ปลาหมักจะใช้เฉพาะคนชั้นสูงในสมัยนั้น) "คักดูกิ" (kkakdugi) เป็นกิมจิทำจากหัวผักกาด ส่วนชนิดสุดท้ายคือ "โชซอน มูซางซานชิก โยรีเจบ็อบ" (Joseon massangsansik yorijebeop) เป็นกิมจิน้ำตำราอาหารของราชสำนักโชซอน โดยมีเรื่องเล่ากันว่ามีการทำกิมจิน้ำโดยมีลูกแพร์เป็นส่วนผสมใช้ทำก๋วยเตี๋ยวเย็นโดยเฉพาะ เพื่อทำถวายกษัตริย์โกชอง (Gojong) กษัตริย์องค์รองสุดท้ายของโชซอน เพราะพระองค์ทรงโปรดก๋วยเตี๋ยวเย็นผสมในกิมจิน้ำพร้อมด้วยน้ำซุปเนื้อ


กิมจิในยุคปัจจุบัน

กิมจิเป็นสิ่งที่ขาดไม่ได้สำหรับชาวเกาหลีดังนั้นเวลามีการเดินทางในต่างแดนก็ไม่ลืมที่จะพกกิมจิติดตัวไปด้วย กิมจิจึงได้เริ่มแพร่หลายในวงกว้างโดยช่วงแรกเริ่มเข้าไปในประเทศใกล้เคียงก่อนคือประเทศจีน รัสเซีย เกาะฮาวาย และญี่ปุ่น โดยเฉพาะอย่างยิ่งประเทศญี่ปุ่น ถือได้ว่าเป็นชาติแรกที่นำกิมจิเป็นเครื่องเคียงในอาหารของชาติตนเองโดยเรียกกิมจิของตนเองว่า คิมุชิ (Kimuchi) เพื่อให้เข้ากับการออกเสียงในภาษาญี่ปุ่น และกิมจิชนิดนี้มีการเปลี่ยนแปลงรสชาติให้เข้ากับอาหารญี่ปุ่นมากขึ้น ต่อมากิมจิจึงเป็นที่นิยมขึ้นเรื่อยๆ ในหมู่ชาวต่างชาติในหลายประเทศ เช่นประเทศสหรัฐอเมริกา จีน ญี่ปุ่น และไทย

กิมจิชนิดต่างๆ

วัตถุดิบในการทำกิมจิโดยทั่วไปแล้วจะเป็นผักกาดขาว (Chinese cabbage, 배추, baechu) หัวผักกาด (radish, 무, mu) กระเทียม (garlic, 마늘, maneul) พริกแดง (red pepper, 빨간고추, ppalgangochu) หัวหอมใหญ่ (spring onion, 파, pa) ปลาหมึก (squid, 오징어, ojingeo) กุ้ง (shrimp) หอยนางรม (oyster, 굴, gul) หรืออาหารทะเลอื่นๆ ขิง (ginger, 생강, saenggang) เกลือ (salt, 소금, sogeum) และน้ำตาล (sugar, 설탕, seoltang)

กิมจิมีมากมายหลายชนิดจากเอกสารของพิพิธภัณฑ์กิมจิในเมืองโซล (The Kimchi Field Museum in Seoul) กิมจิมีมากกว่า 187 ชนิดโดยจะแตกต่างกันตามถิ่นและสภาพอากาศ ตัวอย่างเช่นกิมจิหัวผักกาด (깍두기, kkakdugi) เป็นหัวผักกาดล้วนไม่มีผักกาดขาวผสม กิมจิแตงกวายัดไส้ (오이소배기,oisobaegi) และกิมจิผักกาดขาวที่ถือว่าเป็นกิมจิที่รู้จักกันมากที่สุดในนานาชาติ ซึ่งจะเป็นการผสมผักกาดขาว พริกแดง กระเทียม ขิง และน้ำซุบจากปลากะตัก (젓갈, jeotgal) เข้าด้วยกันซึ่งผักกาดขาวควรจะเป็นผักกาดขาวจีน (Chinese cabbage) จึงจะได้กิมจิที่มีรสชาติดีและจัด หากทำจากผักกาดขาวชนิดอื่นจะทำให้กิมจิมีรสชาติที่อ่อนลง


History of Kimchi

Kimchi represents Korea's best known food. Koreans serve kimchi at almost every meal, and few Koreans can last more than a few days before cravings get the better of them. During the 1988 Summer Olympic Games, thousands of foreigners were introduced to it for the first time. Despite a reputation for being spicy, most people usually develop a taste for it, and many foreigners also find themselves missing it after returning to their home country.

Origin of Kimchi

Since human beings began cultivating, they have enjoyed vegetables, which are rich in vitamins and minerals. However, the cold winter, when cultivation was practically unavailable, led naturally to the development of a storage method- pickling. As a kind of pickled vegetables, kimchi was born in Korea around the 7th century.

Use of Hot Red Pepper Powder

At the earliest stage, kimchi was just salted vegetable, but during the 12th century they saw the appearance of a new type of kimchi with some spices and seasonings, and in the 18th century, hot red pepper finally became one of the major spices for kimchi. In particular, thanks to the introduction of Chinese cabbages in the 19th century, they witnessed the same type of kimchi as we know it today.

The Origin of the Name, Kimchi

It is suspected that the name kimchi originated from shimchae (salting of vegetable) which went through some phonetic changes: shimchae - dimchae - kimchae - kimchi.


Reasons Why Kimchi Was Developed in Korea

Few fermented vegetable foods are found worldwide. Some possible reasons why kimchi was developed as a fermented food especially in Korea are as follows: (1) vegetables were popular to the ancient people in Korea whose main industry was agriculture; (2) Koreans had a remarkable technology of slating fish which was frequently used as a seasoning; (3) Chinese cabbages (Brassica) appropriate for making kimchi were widely grown.

Major Historical Periods of Korea

The development of kimchi is reportedly rooted in the agrarian culture that began before the era of the Three Kingdoms on the Korean Peninsula. Due to the cold Korean winter, they had to come up with the storage technology of vegetables as a means of securing food.


- Kimchi in Ancient Times
It is difficult to identify the process of development of kimchi in ancient times, as historical records of the times are barely available. We can only assume that they simply salted vegetables in order to keep them as long as possible.

-Three Kingdoms Period
The first record found regarding kimchi is during the Three Kingdoms period (57 B.C. - 668 A.D.). The record is written as follows: "The Kogureou People are good at making brewing dreg, malt, bran, and pickling." This implies that fermented food was widely used in every day lives. However, no writings of this period mention seasonings or ingredients.

- Kimchi during the Goryeo Kingdom
Though no direct records as to kimchi are found as in the previous period, cabbages are mentioned in an oriental medicine book titled Hanyakgugeupbang. There were two types of kimchi- jangajji (sliced radish preserved in soy sauce) and sunmu sogeumjeori (salted radish). In this period, kimchi began to receive new attention as a processed food enjoyable regardless of season as well as storage food for winter. It is suspected that the development of seasonings at that time enabled spicy kimchi to appear.

- Kimchi in the Joseon Period
It was after foreign vegetables, in particular, Chinese cabbages (Brassica) were introduced and used as the main material that the current type of kimchi was formed. Hot red pepper was imported to Korea from Japan in the early 17th century (after the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592), but it took roughly 200 years until it was actively used as an ingredient of Kimnchi. Therefore, it was only during the late Joseon that kimchi became associated with its red color.

Royal Court of Joseon
Normally three types of kimchi- whole-cabbage kimchi (jeotgukji), diced-radish kimchi (Kkakdugi) and water kimchi were served for the kings of Joseon. Jeotgukji for a good deal of pickled fish (e.g. croakers) was added to the kimchi. A cooking book of Joseon, Joseon massangsansik yorijebeop, explains how to make jeotgukji as follows:
First, cut well-washed cabbages and radishes into small chunks and salt them. Second, mix them with chopped hot red pepper, garlic, dropwort (minari), leaf mustards (gat) and some seaweed. Third, boil fermented fish in some water and cool it. Fourth, add it to the above blended stuffs. Fifth, store them in a pot and wait till they are fermented.


Even if the main materials of water kimchi (dongchimi) are radish and water, more garnishes were used to enhance the taste in the royal court of Joseon. The radishes used for water kimchi should be of a wholesome shape. In addition, they should be washed and salted for a day before being stored in a jar buried under ground. There is an anecdote that King Gojong, the second last king of Joseon Kingdom liked cold noodle in the dongchimi juice mixed with some beef juice as a winter-night-meal. Hence, they prepared special water kimchi with pears, which were exclusively used for the cold noodle.

Modern Kimchi

Kimchi has been scientifically proved to be highly nutritious and recommended as a future food by many nutritionists at home and abroad. So the export of kimchi to foreign countries is rapidly increasing. Korean immigrants to China, Russia, Hawaii and Japan first introduced kimchi abroad, and have continued to eat kimchi as a side dish. It gradually gained popularity even among foreigners. Accordingly, kimchi may be found wherever Koreans live. Especially in America and Japan where relatively many Koreans live, packed kimchi is easily available. In the past, the production and consumption of kimchi was confined to Korean societies, but nowadays it has become a global food.



김치의 역사
김치의 역사를 시대적으로 나눠 보았을 경우

1)삼국시대

삼국시대 및 통일신라시대 이전의 문헌에는 김치를 가리키는 저(菹)에 관한 기록이 보이지 않는다. 그러나 우리 민족이 고대부터 채소를 즐겨 먹었고 소금을 만들어 사용했다는 사실과 역사적으로 젓갈, 장 등의 발효식품이 만들어진 시기 등을 고려할 때 삼국시대 이전부터 김치류가 제조된 것으로 보인다. 우리나라 김치에 관한 최초의 기록은 중국의 삼국지(三國志) 위지(魏志) 동이전(東夷傳) 고구려조(高句麗條)에 있다. '고구려인은 채소를 먹고, 소금을 멀리서 날라다 이용하였으며, 초목이 중국과 비슷하여 장양(藏釀, 술빚기, 장·젓갈 담기)에 능하다'고 하여 이 시기에 이미 저장 발효식품이 생활화되었다는 사실을 입증하고 있다.

이 시대의 김치는 순무, 가지, 부추, 고비 등을 소금으로만 절인 형태였다. 이 외에 채소를 장이나 초, 술지게미에 절인 형태, 소금과 곡물 죽에 절인 형태 등이 있었다고 추측된다. 이는 오늘날의 장아찌형 절임법인데, 풍부한 해산물과 양질의 채소, 훌륭한 발효 기술을 바탕으로 장아찌형 김치무리와 생선·곡물·채소·소금으로 만들어진 식해형 김치무리가 발전했을 것으로 추정할 수 있다.


2)고려시대

이 시대의 김치에는 순무장아찌와 순무소금절이(김치류)가 있었으며, 김치는 단순히 겨울용 저장식품뿐만 아니라 계절에 따라 즐겨 먹는 조리가공식품으로 변신하기 시작하였다.

고려 초기에는 민간에까지 불교가 성하여 육식을 절제하고 채소요리를 선호하였다.

김치를 뜻하는 '저'(菹)라는 글자는 '고려사'(高麗史)에 처음 등장한다. 이는 우리나라 김치에 대한 최초의 기록이다. 장아찌 형태에 머물렀던 삼국시대와는 달리 고려시대에는 채소재배 기술의 발달에 따라 동치미, 나박김치 등이 새롭게 개발되었다. 이때의 소금에 절인 김치류는 오늘날 짠 무를 물에 희석하여 먹는 나박지, 동치미 등 침채류라 할 수 있다. 이와 같이 삼국시대 장아찌류 즉 채소절임에 머물렀던 김치는 통일신라와 고려시대를 거치며 장아찌류와 동치미·나박김치류로 분화·발달하였다. 더불어 고려시대에는 오이, 부추, 미나리, 갓, 죽순 등 김치에 들어가는 채소류가 다양해졌을 뿐 아니라 단순한 소금절임 형태에서 벗어나 파, 마늘 등 향신료가 가미된 양념형 김치도 등장하였다.

3)조선시대

조선시대 초기 인쇄술의 발달에 따른 농서(農書)의 폭넓은 보급 덕분에 채소 재배 기술이 향상되었다. 또 외국에서 여러가지 채소가 유입되어 김치 재료가 더욱 다양해졌고 여러 형태의 담금법도 개발되었다. 그러나 이때까지도 조리 방법을 기록한 여러 문헌에는 순무, 무, 오이, 가지, 동아, 산갓, 죽순, 파 등이 김치의 주재료로 쓰이고 있다.


김치는 각 지역 산물에 따라 다르게 변화하였기 때문에 향토성을 나타내기도 한다.

단순 절임의 장아찌형과 싱건지 형태의 김치가 있었으며 나박지형, 동치미형 물김치까지 골고루 등장하고 있다. 김치의 국물색을 낼 때는 맨드라미나 연지 등으로 붉은 색을 내기도 하였다. 또 양념 사용이 많아져 주재료와 부재료의 구분이 뚜렷해진다. 고추와 배추, 젓갈은 아직 사용되지 않았고, 침채원은 소금, 된장, 밀기울이었다. 담금법에 따라 나박김치 동치미형, 신건지 짠지형, 섞박지 소박이형, 장아찌형 등 4가지가 있었으며, 그 중 장아찌형이 가장 많고 다음이 신건지형이었다.

조선시대 중기에는 고추가 유입되어 김치 양념의 하나로 자리잡기 시작하였다.

고추는 일본을 거쳐서 도입된 남방식품으로 광해군 때부터 널리 보급되었다고 하니 그 전래시기는 16세기 말경이라 볼 수 있다. 그러나 재배보급에 성공하여 고추가 김치에까지 사용된 것은 훨씬 후이다. 김치에 고춧가루를 사용한 것은 오이김치(山林經濟 1715)가 최초였다. 김치에 고추가 들어가면서 젓갈도 다양하게 쓰이게 되었는데, 식물성 재료에 동물성 재료를 첨가하여 맛과 영양의 조화를 이루고 김치의 감칠맛을 더욱 향상시켰다.

조선시대 말에 이르러 통이 크고 알찬 통배추가 이 땅에서 육종 재배되기 시작(19C말)하여 무와 오이, 가지에 앞서서 배추가 김치의 주재료로 자리잡게 되었다.